Model: FLIR TG165-X.Here's what you need to know:1. It's not considered a "real" thermal imager because it doesn't utilize the actual temperature data streaming from the sensor. It only tells you the numerical temperature of a single pixel, right in the middle of the screen. So to find the hottest temp in your field of view, you'll have to look at the screen and see where it's brightest, then center the reticle on that spot and sort of wiggle it around and watch for the highest reading (like a laser thermometer). By contrast, the HikMicro B-series has two extra roving reticles (one red, one blue) that automatically stay locked on (and display the temperatures of) the hottest and coldest points on screen. So basically, the FLIR has a fixed reticle and must be physically moved around, while the B-series is held steady and the reticles do the moving for you.2. The laser sight/reticle seemed gimmicky at first, but it's actually one of the more important/useful features when doing walk-throughs. If your plan is to use the imager to show your elderly parents exactly why their ancient house sucks, you'll definitely want the laser. Or maybe wifi (to stream video) if they're recliner-bound. Btw, it turns out their home (built in late '60s) has ZERO insulation in the walls... Literally none.3. The case is amazing.4. The screen sucks.5. The trigger button (which is how you take screencaps) is so unbelievably terrible that it borders on offensive. It reminds me of the electrical switches I made from clothespins when I was 8. There's zero tactile feedback to indicate a registered button press; all you feel when you pull the trigger is an awkwardly long travel and the telltale notchiness of a coiled spring stretching. I was expecting the crisp/clean snap of an SMD tact, but instead it feels more like pressing a car's gas pedal. The trigger also wobbles slightly on every axis as though it's not internally bound by/attached to anything. I know this is an entry model, but I really wasn't expecting babby's first switch.6. The screen freezes/glitches constantly (1-2x per sec) if you move around, which gets old REAL fast. It's similar to how a digital camera reacts to changes in ambient lighting, where there's a slight lag before the screen refreshes and changes brightness. Well imagine that, but CONSTANT. And btw, this isn't something that "all imagers do, to recalibrate." In fact, this model doesn't even have a shutter inside. Real imagers have moving parts, you'll actually hear/feel things clicking/moving internally when it recalibrates. I don't know how this one is supposed to recalibrate, but it seems like FLIR tried to replace the expensive shutter hardware with cheap software filtering and it didn't really work.7. All FLIR models are hobbled, by law, to make them slow. Apparently the U.S. gov doesn't want to make this tech available to foreign/rogue governments because they can use it to make heat-seeking missiles. The irony is, the models you buy from China are already much better/faster than the U.S. mandated limit. So for now at least, if you want a fast refresh rate, you'll have to get a Chinese model.8. FLIR units are all made in Taiwan, which is exactly what you want to see. Taiwan is where the best stuff is made.9. FLIR is definitely better than HikMicro when it comes to blending visual/thermal data, but either way, it's pretty bad/useless tech to begin with. The problem is that these imagers don't have a laser disto built in, so instead of automatically calculating distance and perfectly overlapping the visual/thermal frames, they instead only properly align at a single fixed distance. To focus, you have to physically move closer or further from the surface you're scanning, also you have to constantly fiddle with the distance correction factor in the settings menu. Basically the MSX only works for taking single, static shots, which is maybe 1% of the total use time. The other 99% of the time you'll be moving around and scanning things, and the MSX doesn't work for that.10. On literally the last day of my Amazon return window, the FLIR froze permanently during bootup and that was that. I couldn't unfreeze it using the various button press/hold combos mentioned online, and since it had a full battery, I had to let it sit and overheat for half a day until it finally died. I checked it at night before bed and it was still frozen, and running surprisingly hot (I measured it at 100* with my Klein). Heat actually hurts these things, that's why I finally said "screw it" and just returned the thing, that's when I ordered the HikMicro B10 as a replacement. I also learned my lesson about trying to save a buck using Amazon's "Used, Like new" option. It may LOOK new, but maybe it was overheated/abused, you'll never know. I'm sure Amazon will just keep factory resetting that same clearly defective gun and sending it off to the next victim.Okay, so fast forward a few months, and I've now had ample time to test the HikMicro, so the big question is: am I happy with it? Well no, not really. I didn't return it though, I guess that's something. I guess I was willing to overlook more of the B10's flaws because they seem to be mostly firmware based, and firmware is easily fixed via updates. The bottom line with these imagers is that you really only have two options - the one you can't afford, or the one you won't be happy with. I will say the technology itself is a game changer, and you definitely need a thermal imager of some kind in your toolbox. Just don't expect to fall in love with the one you get. Expect to settle for it, while constantly longing for the better, sexier model.P.s. - my side by side pics are precisely scaled 1:1, so you can compare size. You can see how much bigger the B10 screen is compared to the FLIR. Neither has good ergonomics unfortunately. Not like the Klein, which is approaching ergonomic perfection. The FLIR is the worst, it's top heavy and feels quite stupid really, like walking around holding one of those pointy ice cream cones with a massive ball of ice cream on top. I can almost guarantee that it's only a matter of time before you drop the FLIR on its head. The Hikmicro isn't a whole lot better (the handle has the same stupid taper), but it's not as top heavy, and at least they give you a lanyard, so a slip won't mean a drop.A few more things I thought of today - the FLIR has a VERY slow turn-on time. Like set it down, walk away, and come back when it's done booting kinda slow. That in itself is tolerable, but the REAL aggravation was that it was always turning itself off mid-use, so I was constantly having to endure that slow reboot. This is actually one of my biggest gripes with the FLIR, because while most of the unit's shortcomings are actually quite brilliant in terms of economic optimization and cost/benefit analysis, the turn-off issue is simply bad design. The problem is that the unit doesn't have an accelerometer, so the only way it can detect activity is through a trigger pull. Which is a function I don't use during most sessions. So I ended up in the habit of just taking a random picture of nothing every few mins, just to keep the unit from powering down. It's pretty clear that this model shouldn't have a power-down feature/option if it can't even tell when the user is actively walking around using it! The HikMicro boots much faster btw, but it's still an annoying process. You have to guess how long to hold the power button, and it always feels way too long, and sometimes you release early and it doesn't take so you have to do it again. And my suspicion is that the screen stays black much longer than is necessary, as a way of tricking users into thinking it boots quicker (because there's less time spent watching a loading screen before it's ready). I regret not using a stopwatch to time the FLIR when I had the chance.I know, I know - you want me to post a side-by-side comparison of actual, in-use screenshots, and that IS on my to-do list, but... my advice, don't stress over that aspect, because it matters a lot less than you'd think.Okay dang, I remembered something else - the FLIR was definitely better than the HikMikcro at dealing with reflective surfaces. Actually, maybe I should first mention that these imagers don't work through glass, if you didn't know. In fact a modern window is a literal perfect mirror when viewed through the imager. So don't think you're going to walk up to your glass slider at 3am and scan your yard for critters, because all you're going to see is a doofus standing there in his boxers holding a thermal imager. And the hi/lo reticles on the HikMikcro go crazy and show random numbers (often below 0*) when you go near polished chrome, so if you're planning to scan the engine bay of a show car, you'll probably have to disable the reticles.